Drop Down MenusCSS Drop Down MenuPure CSS Dropdown Menu -->

MyMenu1

Wednesday 26 November 2014

Aveiro, Coimbra and Peniche - Couchsurfing, oldest university in Portugal and jacuzzi



After our short visit to witness Sao Joao we were off to see the coastal city of Aveiro and enjoy our first couchsurfing experience in Portugal. On arriving in Aveiro we were met at the station by our host Mario, who was kind enough to take our bags with him to work and leave us to explore the city in the meantime, after giving us some rough directions about where to go.

We explored much of central Aveiro, strolling through the old centre, seeing the fish market and the traditional Moliceiros boats, which are colourful fishing boats that are now a popular tourist attraction, where people go on cruises around the numerous canals. The key feature of these boats being the funny images and captions painted on the boats, which are often a bit rude in their humour. The canals are a beautiful setting and have been said to have similarities to those in Venice.
 
Moliceiros canal boat
With the caption reading: Much bigger and thicker than mine at home
After we finished exploring most of the centre of Aveiro, we were then later picked up by Mario after he had finished work and went back to his place via the supermarket where he picked up a few things to make a meal for us that evening. 

When we arrived back we were shown around his house (formerly his grandparents) and it is filled with lots of cool pieces of artwork. We were shown up to our room where we had a comfy mattress on the floor. We were then introduced to a lovely snack food of fresh cheese and pumpkin jam on bread, which is something I would never have thought of combining, but it worked extremely well together. We then had a shower while he started to cook us all a meal. 

After the shower we saw Mario put the last finishing touches to his meal, adding a bottle of beer to the mix and his own homemade sauce/spice mixture to the pot (an interesting combination). After letting it simmer for a short while it was ready. 

We sat down to the most delicious meal we had eaten in Portugal so far; feijoada (beans and meat), served with boiled cabbage and rice. Neither of us could get enough of it, having seconds and mopping up the sauce and juices with bread. The way we ate is like we haven't eaten in a week!

After the meal we sat talking late into the night, partaking of some wine and local spirit, it was a fun night and we learned much about each other. Mario’s work involves 3D printing, which was really interesting, he showed us some of the things he was making from, printers that he himself had built; we even tried them on! 

Trying on Mario's 3D printed glasses
Mario is in charge of his own company and works ridiculous hours, seeming to go home only to eat and sleep. But he really seems to love his job, he just needs to remember to occasionally take it easy every once in a while!

Our next day in Aveiro he dropped us off at the beach and we strolled along the beach front, walking out to the lighthouse and back along the beach front stopping for ice cream and some creamy Portuguese sweets. In the evening this time we went around to one of Mario's friends house where we met a whole group of his friends and had another nice meal before heading out to Praça do Peixe (fish plaza) in the city centre to go to the many bars. It was a fun night with much drinking and dancing, culminating in Carmen driving Mario's car back to his house as Mario was too drunk to drive.

The following morning we got up late and were very sad to be saying goodbye to Mario as we had had such a great time. He asked if we wanted to stay another night, which we gladly would have if we hadn't already had accommodation booked at our next destination. We will try and keep in touch and hope to see him one day come visit us in England or Romania!

Posing for a picture with Mario just before we left
Our next stop was Coimbra, a city famous for its university (University of Coimbra), the oldest in Portugal. The university is situated on top of a hill and is an impressive site with nice views from the top over the town. Coimbra is a small city with lots of tiny cobbled streets and buildings with traditional architecture. We stayed in the heart of the city and were lucky enough to witness a live dancing and music performance from the courtyard right outside the guesthouse we were staying in. 

Traditional Portuguese dancing
A contender for the highlight of our stay in Coimbra was when we went to a little restaurant just outside the old centre of town, away from all the hustle and bustle of tourists, which we had found out about from the internet. Here they served the popular Leitao (Roasted suckling pig), a gorgeous dish of pig roasted in a pit whole and then cut up into pieces, served with crisps. The tender, juicy, flavour intense meat will just melt in your mouth. The owner of the restaurant was kind enough to give us a sampling of her homemade garnish as well, which worked really well with it too.

The delicious Leitao
The city of Peniche was our last stopping point through central Portugal before heading to Lisbon. We took the opportunity for a bit of rest and relaxation here, settling in at a nice campsite, with some great facilities (jacuzzi, swimming pool and gym), all for a ridiculously cheap price. 

Carmen relaxing in the jacuzzi
 Peniche is only a small place, without much to see or do unless you like water sports, in which case you are in heaven as there is a lot of surfing and other water based sports available due to the high winds that are around the peninsula. However, it is a very beautiful place to relax and enjoy the scenery and sunsets, and to just watch slow pace of life of the locals, many of which fish out on the cliff tops. It was a nice break and set us up well for our next stop in the capital of Portugal, Lisbon.

Sunset from Peniche peninsula
Looking out over the Atlantic Ocean

Tuesday 25 November 2014

La Festa de Sao Joao

After being chased by bulls in Ponte de Lima as we described in the previous post, we have decided to head back to the lovely Porto for a bit of normality - or so we thought! Little did we know...

The reason for our return to Porto was the fact that La Festa de Sao Joao was going on and we wanted to join in the festivities. The festival, the most important one in the city's agenda, is extremely popular in Portugal, but little known outside of the country, which we found surprising given that it is probably one of the biggest street festivals in Europe. Plus, it has been celebrated for over six hundred years.

La Festa takes place for several weeks in May-June, in honour of Sao Joao (Saint John), who is said to be the patron saint of lovers. During these weeks churches proudly display to visitors altars and artwork celebrating the saint. There are boat races down the Douro river, as well as other competitive events. The streets of Porto are also becoming more festive, as houses and neighbourhoods are being decorated in preparation for the big night, the night of 23rd June, the Night of Sao Joao (Saint John).

This is when the streets of Porto are filling with seemingly crazy people, armed with plastic hammers, garlic flowers and leeks, which are used to give passers by friendly smacks on the head! We must have got literally hundreds of smacks on the head, some more friendly than others, based on the sobriety of the giver! Although the festival has been going on for centuries, no one really knows when the custom of hitting people on the head originated and why, although it is somehow related with a plastic manufacturer, go figure.
He means business!
Anyway, there is more to the festival than head-smacking and, as previously mentioned, it is one of Europe's biggest street festival. Throughout the night, the streets of Porto are full of people of all ages, which makes it a family festival, and for that so much better. There are street concerts, lots of places to grab a bite (grilled sardines is a - very yummy - tradition), music blasts out of every corner and there are thousands of Chinese lanterns lit and sent off into the sky.
Concert stage, dancing on the street
Lighting a lantern

Street barbeque
One of the highlights of the festival is the fireworks display that lights up the Douro river. At midnight a massive fireworks show is prepared, a show which attracts a big crowd. Although the fireworks could be considered the main feature of the festa, the party is not even nearly over. Once the display is over, people of all ages resume their party-ing until 3-4 in the morning, with the youngsters taking it even further by waiting for the sunrise over the river.
Large crowd of people
Fireworks!
Unfortunately we were way too tired after a long day of travels so after the fireworks we went back to the concert stage but as the music was not to our liking we went back to our hotel room, which looked like this:
Nice hotel room
PS. We didn't pay for that room, we paid for a cheap room, however, due to a mix up in the booking process that was the only room they had. If only all mess-ups were like this!